guidelines for color contrast?

[TPGriffin76]

There is a gentleman in our local club who owns, and often plays with, a somewhat unusual set. Although the style and size of the pieces appear to be conventional Staunton (and in those respects legal), the color of the pieces is unusual.

Instead of clearly White and Black, they are a dark tan (light brown) and a dark brown. The two colors are indeed different, but not as clearly as they would be if they were White and Black.

I haven’t played this gentelman yet, but probably will soon. And I haven’t noticed anyone complain about the reduced contrast between the White and Black in his set - although it might have happened, more discreetly (as would be appropriate). In any event, I am a bit uneasy about playing with this set - knowing that perhaps my own ability to detect clearly the contrast might be less than some others’. (20/20, but missing some minor degree of color recognition ability, I’ve been told.)

Anyway - are there any guidelines about this kind of thing, specifically, the required range of color(s) or color contrast of the pieces? I suspect it’s not an easy thing to quantify or define. I am inclined to ask that this set NOT be used, but I don’t want to cause a problem if this is already a clear-cut issue (in either direction).

Thanks for any feedback or insights that can be provided on this issue (which I know is relatively minor).

[xplor]

Put a bottle of whiteout in the bag with your chess pieces. He may agree to use yours.

[wzim]

from the rulebook

40D. Color. Pieces should be the colors of naturally light and
dark wood {for example, maple or boxwood and walnut or ebony}
or approximations of these colors, such as simply white and black.

41B. Color, Like the pieces, chessboard colors should offer
high contrast between the light and dark sections yet remain pleas-
ing to the eye. Good combinations include green or brown with
ivory or buff, and walnut or teak with maple or birch. The colors
and the finish should allow extended examination without eye-
strain.
Squares that do not exactly match the colors of the pieces are
popular because they allow ready distinction between empty and
occupied squares. For example, the green and buff vinyl roll-up
board sold by USCF and others is the most commonly used at tour-
naments. Red and black checkerboards are nonstandard.

[timjust]

@wzim

from the rulebook

40D. Color. Pieces should be the colors of naturally light and
dark wood {for example, maple or boxwood and walnut or ebony}
or approximations of these colors, such as simply white and black.

41B. Color, Like the pieces, chessboard colors should offer
high contrast between the light and dark sections yet remain pleas-
ing to the eye. Good combinations include green or brown with
ivory or buff, and walnut or teak with maple or birch. The colors
and the finish should allow extended examination without eye-
strain.
Squares that do not exactly match the colors of the pieces are
popular because they allow ready distinction between empty and
occupied squares. For example, the green and buff vinyl roll-up
board sold by USCF and others is the most commonly used at tour-
naments. Red and black checkerboards are nonstandard.

If you feel the pieces you are about to play with do not meet this rulebook standard you can get a TD to decide before you start to play.

[TPGriffin76]

Yeah, that’s what I figured was the default - I guess I was just looking for the least confrontational approach, so wondered what precedents there might be for this kind of request. I suspect I am atypical in this particular eyesight deficiency.

I am not so much worried about being able to discern the White Knight from the Black Knight, if they are sitting on a table top next to each other, as I am worried about losing sight of the fact that it’s my OPPONENT’s Knight sitting on g5, not mine, as I’m contemplating my next move.
Probably it is an unplaced phobia, and I agree with your “bottom line” approach.

Hey - maybe I should try some of Jen Shahade’s unicolor chess, as a special training aid!

Thanks, all, for your feedback (and any other ideas that follow). Xplor, I like your idea!.. heading off to Staples in a few minutes. :mrgreen:

[xplor]

When playing someone with an expensive set that the owner values I mention my fear of damaging one of the pieces and request to use the low cost USCF approved set that is in the bag, but only after admiring their fine chess set.

[wbport]

@xplor

When playing someone with an expensive set that the owner values I mention my fear of damaging one of the pieces and request to use the low cost USCF approved set that is in the bag, but only after admiring their fine chess set.

Good answer and very tactful.

[LaughingVulcan]

Speaking of that which Mr. Griffin wasn’t ( ), has there ever been consensus on whether red-and-white fits the color definitions?

What can I say - I like red for the dark colored pieces.

(Links to other threads already dealing with this welcome as an answer.)

[jwiewel]

At one scholastic tournament the organizer had white and green instead of white and black. It was a St. Patrick’s Day tournament and he did have black pieces available if anybody wanted to change (nobody did).

Last weekend one player had red and blue, with blue used for the black pieces.

[wbport]

I once had to teach “queen on her own color” to someone with a white and red set on a red and black board. In this case red is light and red is black while confusion reigned.

[mlanger]

Play it by trust, Mr. TPGriffin76.

[ppwchess]

@jwiewel

At one scholastic tournament the organizer had white and green instead of white and black. It was a St. Patrick’s Day tournament and he did have black pieces available if anybody wanted to change (nobody did).

Last weekend one player had red and blue, with blue used for the black pieces.

Some of the color combos I’ve seen at scholastic tournaments are enough to give any sane adult a migraine. Neon pink and green on an orange board! Ewwwwww!!!

[TPGriffin76]

@mlanger

Play it by trust, Mr. TPGriffin76.

ROFL!
I would have an easier go of it trying to hula my way through the Albin. :mrgreen:

[LaughingVulcan]

With the properly tinted and polarized sunglasses, though, you could probably make a set look more ‘standard’, though. Or any combination of shades.

Plus, bonus: If they are dark enough and/or mirrored, one could look as cool as a professional poker player! :mrgreen:

[size=85]Disclosure: The author of this post does not advocate a rules change that all players should be required to possess tinted sunglasses. Nor does he really believe that wearing sungasses should be legal in professional poker.[/size]